Rubber and fabric footwear article and method of making



April'zl, G. F. GOURLEY 1,801,771

RUBBER AND FABRIC FOOTWEAR ARTICLE AND METHOD OF MAKING Filed June 19292 Sheets-Sheet l ATTORNEY .G. F. GOURLEY April 21, 1931'.

RUBBER AND FABRIC FOOTWEAR ARTICLE AND METHODOF MAKING 2 Sheets-sheaf 2Filed June 7. 1929 IN VENT 0R Georye .2? Gour-Ze y BY w ATTORNEYPatented Apr. 21, 1931 UNITED STATES PATEN FFICE GEORGE F. GOURLEY, OFBALDWIN, NEVT YORK, ASSIGNOR TO THE GOODYEARS INDIA RUBBER GLOVE MFG.00., OF NAUGAT'UCK, CONNECTICUT, .A. CORPORATION OF COIL NECTIGUT RUBBERAND FABRIC FOOTWEAR ARTICLE AND METHOD OF MAKING Application filed June7,

This invention relates 'to' a rubber and fabric footwear article andmethod of making it, more particularly to footwear articles of thegaiter or arctic type.

In the making of various types of gaiters and arctics, the usualpractice for many years was to build the article on a last byindividually superposing the various parts and compacting and adhesivelyuniting them at all points by hand rolling. fork of this characterrequires both skill and care in order to properly fit each superposedpart on the part beneath it and conform the parts to the curve of thelast, and in compacting them a small hand roller is used which has apractically line contact with the curved contours of the last so thatthis rolling must be carefully and completely done in order to insurethat the parts are united at all points and free from air pocketswhichwill cause blisters in the finished article and require it to be sold asa second. In order to avoid. such individual building up of the partsonthe last, it has been proposed to assemble inner and outer vamp parts inthe flat by superposing them and rolling so as to form a complete orsubstantially complete vamp, and in a similar manner to assemble innerand outer quarter parts to form a complete or substantially completequarter. The assembled vamp and quarter are then joined at oppositesides so as to form a closed upper which is then lasted as a whole andunited. to an insole and the article finished inthe usual manner. Anobjection to this method lies in the fact that it requires lapped jointsat the sides, either a single lapped joint of the entire vamp andquarter or multiple joints of the individual parts composing the vampand quarterj As a result, the completed upper is stiffened at the jointsand it does not last as smoothly and easily as desired. Moreover, if itis desired to reinforce these joints, the stifiness is furtherincreased. An additional objection is that, particularly in the case oflight gaiters and other types of footwear which have recently becomepopular for ladies use, the lapped joint on the inside of the articledoes not give as smooth a lit either when lasting the upper 1929. SerialNo. 369,054.

on a last or when the finished article is in use. A common form oflining is made of either fieece material or cloth, and when thismaterial is joined by a lapped joint at the sides of the article, theexposed lap tends to roll back and become loose by reason of lateralfriction in putting 'on and taking off the article, thereby weakeningthe joint and marring the interior appearance of the article.

An object of my invention is to provide an improved method of makingrubber and fabric footwear. Another object is to provide a method ofmaking rubber and fabric footwear by which the upper may be smoothly andeasily lasted. Another object is to provide a method by which a rubberand fabric footwear article having side pockets may be assembled with aminimum of inside seams and without the use of lapped joints at pointsexposed to friction. A further object is to provide an improved rubberand fabric footwear article. A still further object is to provide arubber and fabric footwear article having a minimum number of joints inits lining. A still further object is to provide a rubber and fabricfootwear article in which side seams on the interior are avoided. Astill further object is to provide a rubber and fabric footwear articlein which any joints in the lining are located at points which are notexposed to friction laterally of the joint, and which do not requirespecial reinforcements but utilize reinforcements necessarily employedat such points in the construction. of the articles. Further objectswill appear from the detailed description and claims. 7

The. invention consists broadly in form- ,ing a one piece lining adaptedto have its ends joined at an end of the article, forming vamp andquarter outers, disposing one of these on the corresponding portion ofthe lining in the flat and uniting the two, and forming a closed upperby uniting the re-' maining outer to the remaining exposed portions ofthe lining, and finishingthe article. The invention also includes thearticle so formed.

For a complete disclosure of the nature and objects of the invention,reference is had to the accompanying drawings, in which latter:

Fig. l is a plan view showing a. one piece. lining with parts of theouter assembled therewith but partially turned back to show theconstruction;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a quarter outer with certain detailed partsassembled thereon;

Fig. is a plan view of a heel piece with a reinforcement assembledthereon;

Fig. l is a. sectional view on the line 1 it through the upper of thefootu ar article shown in and Fig. is a side view of a completed footwear article.

In the accompanying drawings the invention is illustrated as embodied ina rubber-fabric footwear article of the type known a. a gaiter, and incarrying out this form of the invention a complete one piece lining 1 iscutout and laid flat.

rhis lining may be of any suitable material such as fleece lining, clothor other suitable material. The lining material is first coated on oneside with rubber in any suitable manner as by friction calendering, andin Fig. 1 the cut out lining is shown with its rubberized surfaceuppermost. In the specific embodiment, the lining has been cut so thatits middle portion 2 corresponds to the vamp portion of the usuallining, while the end portions 3 wnen joined at their side edgescorrespond to the quarter portion of the lining. Prefe ably the part 1is slit at the bottom adjacent the sides of the vamp portion as shown at1, and to the edges of the slits gores 5 are secured. In the finishedarticle pockets are formed by folding directly above the gores and thelatter are inserted in order that the lower portion of the lining may beexpanded when the pockets are formed. Following this, a. previously outinner vamp (5 is disposed on the vamp portion 2 of the lining with itslower edge spaced inwardly slightly from the lower edge of the lining soas to obtain a shingled effect. This inner vamp, as shown, is of rubbercomposition, but if desired, and particularly in the case of heavierfootwear articles, it may be made of rubberized fabric. Quarterreinforcement strips 7 of the shape shown in 1 are next superposed onthe lining, these strips also being of gum or if desired of rubberizedfabric. Following this, a. cut out vamp outer 8 is disposed on the innervamp 6 and lining 1 as shown, the upper edge of the vamp outercoinciding with the corresponding upper edge portion of the lining. Thisvamp outer in the embodimen shown is made of cloth which has been coatedon one side with rubber, as by friction calende-ring, and as shown inFig. 1, the rubberized side is disposed in contact with the inner vampand lining while the cloth face is uppermost. The superposed parts arerolled together, with the exception of the side edge portions 9 of thevamp outer, which are not rolled down into adhesion with the partsbeneath and are free as far back as the lines 10. Adjacent the lower endof the free edge portions 9, a small tab 11 is formed by slitting, thistab being lanped over the quarter outer in the assem bled. upper as willbe later described. A friction coated back strip 12, which is alsopreferably given an additional calender coat on one side, is nextdisposed partly on the side edge 13 of the lining, as shown in Fig. 1,the calender coated side being downward and adhesively united to theedge of the lining. It will be noted that the side edges 13 of thelining are not straight throughout their extent, but at their lower endsare bent inwardly, as shown at 14. The pur pose of this inward bend isto cause the lining to conform to the inward curve of the last at thebottom of the heel when the edge portions 14 are united in the closedupper.

A cut out quarter outer 15 1s next laid flat, as shown in Fig. 2, thisbeing of the same material as the vamp outer and as in the case of theone piece lining being disposed with its rubberized side upward. Theouter is slit at the point 16 for the reception of a strap to be laterdescribed. A collar reinforcement 17, which is friction coated withrubber on both sides and is usually known as a friction collar, issuperposed on the quarter outer with its upper edge in registry with theupper edge of the quarter outer. A collar piece 18 of the rubberizedcloth similar to that used for the vamp and quarter outers, is cut tothe same shape as the friction collar 17 and is superposed on the latterand the parts rolled together. A strap 19 made of cloth similar to theamp and quarter outers is cemented at one end and the cemented end 20 isinserted through the slit l6 and then covered with a stay piece 21 offriction coated fabric. At the opposite side of the quarter outer asmall stay piece 22 of friction coated fabric is superposed, this latterpiece being merely a reinforcement to securely anchor one member of asnap fastener which in the finished article is located at this point.The cornpleted quarter outer and collar is then provided with anornamental over-edged seam 23 around the edges of the collar. Whenmaking an article having no collar, the quart-er outer is of course madewithout the collar parts.

A rubber ieel piece or heel foxing 24 is cut out to the shape shown inFig. 3 and on this is superposed a reinforcing piece 25 made of fabricfriction coated on both sides eora-7i and preferably then calendered onone side,

thiscalen'dered side being uppermost as shown in Fig. 3.

The assembly shown in Fig. 1 and the quarter outer assembly shown inFig. 2 are "then united to form a closed upper,'and this upper memberthus formed on a last and lasting it to an insole, andthereupon-joiningthe quarter outer assembly of Fig. 2 on the last. It is preferred,however, to join the quarter outer assembly to the lining and vamp outerassembly off the last and then dispose the thus closed upper on a lastand unite it with an insole.

WVhile no particular order is essential in joining the quarter outerassembly to the lining and vamp outer assembly, a convenient method isas followsrThe left'hand quarter lining portion 3, asshown in'Fig. 1, isfolded under on the line 10, leaving free the edge portion 9 of'the vampouter. The upper left hand corner 26 of the vamp outer is thensuperposed on the point 27 of the quarter outer and the left hand freeedge 28 of the vamp outer is superposed on the left hand edge 29 of thequarter outer. The upper left hand lining edge 30 is then laidcoincident with the line 31 on the collar 18 and the entire liningportion 3 then rolled down on the corresponding left hand half of thequarter outer. This will bring the left hand lining edge 13coincidentwith the vertical medial line of the quarter outer, and willbring the folding line 10 of the lining coincident with the line 32 onthe quarter outer, with the left hand edge portion 9 of the vamp outerexactly coincident with, and

adhered to the left hand edge portion 33 of the quarter outer. The smalltabll on the vamp outer is folded over and adhered to the lowercorner ofthe quarter outer. v

In the same manner, the right hand lining portion 3 is folded under onthe line 10 and superposed on the right hand portion of the quarterouter, and the superposed parts joined by rolling.

The post member of a snap fastener is then secured to the quarterouterin centered position on the stay piece 22, the strap 19 which haspreviously been furnished with a center ornamental buckle and a bucklecontaining the complementary member of the snap fastener, isdisposedacross the vamp and the membersof the snap fastener connected,the collar 18 is turned down and the upper foldedinas shown in Fig. 4 toform the pockets 34;. The strap 19 may be made by folding a strip of therubberized outer material around a central reinforcing strip.

The upper is then pulled dow ri over a last insole before the lastingoperation.

strength is desired, oints andits lower edges lasted over on toan'insole and secured thereto preferably by cement. A filler sole maythen be disposed on the insole within the area enclosed by the lastedover portion of the upper, or instead the filler sole may be united tothe article is then finished in the usual manner by applying a rubberheel plug 011 the bottom of the heel,'over which is placed a heel staywhich extends up along the rear and sides of the heel, and a toe stripof frictioned fabric is then disposed along the lower The edge of thevamp portion of the article. The

heel piece shown in Fig. 3 may then be applied, followed bya rubber toefoxing 35. A bindersole of frictioned' fabric is then disposed on thesole portion of the article, an outsole applied and rolled down and thearticle finished by vulcanizing. These finish- I vention. Union of thevarious parts is obtained in the usual manner by the adhesiveness of therubber coatings, or by cementing, or by'both. It is obvious, however,that in the case of heavy articles or where great by stitching, rivets,etc.

vVhile in the specific embodiment described a one piece lining has beenshown as being adapted to be joined at theheel of the shoe and to bebuilt up in the flat with the vamp may be reinforced H v being the partthen built up in the fiat with the lining.

While in the specific embodiment illustrated the invention is applied towhat is known as a cloth gaiter, it is equally applicable in themanufacture of rubber gaiters, that is, H

gaiters having a rubber outer instead of a cloth outer, cloth arcticsand rubber arctics easily put on and taken off in use. Even inthefootwear articles built up in the flat with side seams, it isnecessary. to have a half seam at the lower heel portion to take care ofthe inward curve of the heel, and by my construction a single fulllength seam at the heel takes the'plac-e of the usual half seam and twofull seams at the sides of the article. Another advantage is that thisseam being placed at the heel where reinforcements are necessary even inthe usual constructionof the articles, permits these reinforcements toreinforce the seam Without stiffening the upper at points where it isnot desired to have it stiffened.

It is obvious that changes may be made Without departing from the spiritof the invention, and it is not desired that it be limited except asdefined in the appended claims.

Having thus described my-invention, what I claim and desire to protectby Letters Patent is:

l. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles whichcomprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends joinedat an end of the article, cutting out a vamp outer and a quarter outer,superposing one of them on its corresponding portion of the lining andadhesively uniting the two, thereby leaving the lining end portionsexosed, superposing portions of the remaining outer on the correspondingexposed end portions of the lining and adhesively uniting them to formaclosed upper, lasting the upper on an insole, and finishing thearticle.

2. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles whichcomprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends joinedat an end of the article, cutting out separate vamp and quarter outers,superposing one of the outers on its corresponding portion of the liningand adhesively uniting the two, thereby leaving the lining end' portionsexposed, superposing portions of the remaining outer successively on thecorresponding exposed end portions of the lining and adhesively unitingthem, superposing and joining adjacent side edge portions of the vampand quarter outers in outstanding lapped joints, lasting the upper on aninsole, and finishing the article.

3. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles whichcomprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends joinedat'the heel of the article, cutting out separate vamp and quarterouters, superposing the vamp enter on the corresponding medial portionof the lining and adhesively uniting'them, thereby leaving the liningend portions exposed, superposing the quarter outer on the correspondingexposed end portions of the lining and adhesively uniting them to form aclosed upper, lasting the upper on an insole, and finishing the article.

4. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles whichcomprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends joinedat the heel of the article, cutting out separate vamp and quarterouters, superposing the vamp outer on'the corresponding medial portionof the lining and adhesively uniting them, thereby leaving the liningend portions exposed, superposing the quarter outer onthe-eorrespondingexposed have its ends joined at the heel ofthe article,

cutting out an inner vamp, a vamp outer and a quarter outer,successively superposingthe inner vamp and vamp outer on thecorrespondingportion of the lining and ad hesively uniting them, therebyleaving the lining end portions exposed, superposing the quarter outeron and uniting it to said exposed lining end portions with the verticaledges of said end portions juxtaposed at the heel of the article, andsuperposing and joining the vertical side edge portions of the vampouter to the corresponding vertical side edge portions of the quarterouter in outstandinglapped seams atithe sides of the article,-lastingtheclosed upper on an insole, and finishing the article.

6. The method of making rubber or rubberized footwear articles whichcomprises cutting out a one-piece lining adapted to have its ends oinedatthe heel of the article, cutting out an inner vamp and a vamp out er,successively superposing the inner vamp and vamp outer on thecorresponding portion of the lining and adhesively uniting them, therebyleaving the lining end portions exposed, cutting out a quarter outer, afriction collar and. a cloth collar, successively superposing thefriction collar and cloth collar on the inner side of the upper portionof the quarter outer, adhesively uniting the exposed end portions of thelin ing to the inner face of the quarter outer with the vertical rearedges of the lining juxtaposed and the horizontal upper edges of saidlining end portions lapped on the lower edge of the collar, joining thevertical form pockets, the upper having vamp and quarter outers joinedat the sides, and a one-piece lining joined at one end of the article.

8. A rubber and fabric footwear article comprising an upper having acontinuous vamp and quarter folded at the sides to form pockets, theupper having vamp and quarter outers joined at the sides, and a onepieeelining joined at one end of the article,

said lining having gores below said pockets.

9. A rubber and fabric footwear article comprising an upper having acontinuous vamp and quarter folded in at the sides to form pockets, theupper having vamp and quarter outers each composed of a single piece andjoined at the sides in an outstanding lapped seam, and a one-piecelining joined at the heel.

10. A rubber and fabric footwear article comprising an upper having acontinuous vamp and quarter folded in at the sides to form pockets, theupper'having vamp and quarter outers joined at the sides in anoutstanding lapped seam, and a one-piece lining joined at the heel, saidlining having gores below said pockets.

11. A rubber and fabric footwear article comprising an upper having acontinuous vamp and quarter folded in at the sides to form pockets, theupper having vamp and quarter outers joined at the sides in anoutstanding lapped seam, the quarter outer being extended above the bodyof the article to form a collar, said collar having an inner face of thesame material as the quarter outer, and a one-piece lining joined at theheel, the upper rear edge of said lining being lapped on the lower edgeof the inner face of the collar.

Signed at New York, county and State of New York, this 28th day of May,1929.

GEORGE F. GOURLEY.

